Iriki National Park

Iriki National Park, located in southern Morocco, stands out for its vast desert landscapes. It holds great cultural richness, marked by the life and history of nomadic people, with fascinating and diverse landscapes that are still little known to travelers. Thanks to our guide, who grew up in these lands and passionately shares all the secrets of this territory, you will discover the unique features of these places, taking a journey through time and across vast expanses that leave unforgettable memories

Key Figures of Iriki National Park

The park is part of the Souss Massa region, in the province of Tata, and extends from Foum Zguid to M’Hamid El Ghizlane, between the Drâa River and the southern Anti-Atlas, covering an area of 123,000 hectares.

It was established in 1994 with the aim of preserving animal species and rehabilitating the wetland areas of the dried-up central lake, where desertification continues to intensify.

Iriki National Park is located 150 km south of Ouarzazate and 80 km southwest of Zagora. The main roads from major cities such as Agadir, Marrakech, or Ouarzazate leading to Foum Zguid are easily accessible with any type of tourist vehicle. From Foum Zguid, you can reach Lake Iriki and the dunes by 4×4 or motorcycle via rocky and sandy tracks.

Nearly half of the park’s surface is covered by sand dunes, including the Erg El Mhazil, where you can embark on a bivouac in a preserved natural setting, with an incredible view of Jbel Bani in the distance and breathtaking dune landscapes

The Wildlife of Iriki National Park

Iriki National Park is home to a diverse range of wildlife, specific to this desert and mountainous region of Morocco. Some of the species found here include the Dorcas gazelle, Barbary sheep, striped hyena, houbara bustard, monitor lizard, various lizards, chameleon, spiny-tailed lizard, snakes, and scorpions. The park is also home to numerous bird species, one of the most iconic being the “traveler’s bird,” recognizable by its black-and-white plumage and melodious song.

Some of these animals are easily observable, such as the traveler’s bird or lizards, but for most, patience and discretion are required to spot them. The hiking and trekking experiences we offer at FOUM ZGUID TOURS are the best way to explore the desert, as they take you to remote areas. You may be lucky enough to spot graceful gazelles in the distance, but this is never guaranteed, as nature always holds surprises

In recent years, several species that had previously disappeared have been reintroduced to Iriki National Park, such as the Oryx, Addax, and, since 2023, the red-necked ostrich. These species have managed to reproduce, but their survival remains fragile and constantly threatened. During winter, when the bed of the former Iriki Lake fills with some water, it becomes a stopover for migratory birds such as flamingos, storks, and coots. However, with increasingly dry winters, it is becoming rarer to see these birds in the area.

You will also find herds belonging to nomads, freely roaming under the watchful eye of their shepherds—camels, goats, sheep, and donkeys. These peaceful animals can be easily approached.

The different natural spaces of Iriqui National Park

This vast space is made up of very varied landscapes. From Foum Zguid, by the track, we approach the tabular plateaus, these thousand-year-old mountains with flat summits, one of which in the shape of a tagine is easily recognizable.

The part of the dry lake of Iriki forms a vast plain of dry land where we still find the presence of salt which forms a light white crust on the surface of the cracked earth.

All around, the stony steppes are dotted with acacia raddiana while the dunes welcome the tamarisk trees which offer much-appreciated shade under the desert sun.

Much of Iriki National Park is made up of sand dunes, the beginning of the Sahara which extends to the Red Sea. There are present the most beautiful and highest dunes of Morocco, the best known of which are those of Erg Chegaga. This dune area includes different Erg: Erg El Mhazil, Erg El Ghoule, Erg Chegaga, Erg Laalem, Erg El Haj Ahmed.

The oases also punctuate the landscapes. They are important places in these desert expanses because they bring water that is so precious for people, herds, and wildlife.

The geological heritage of this region is fascinating. For example, you can observe the volcanic formations of the Djebel Bani Geopark to the north or find fossils, prehistoric vestiges of aquatic life of yesteryear.

From M’Hamid to Foum Zguid, we thus travel through all these expanses which evolve over the kilometers and create a total change of scenery

Rock engravings and paintings in Iriqui National Park

The archaeological heritage is also unique in this region with the presence of rock engravings and paintings which would date from the Neolithic, 6th/7th millennium BC, but it remains very difficult to date them with certainty. The rock carvings are specific to southern Morocco and in particular to the Iriki National Park. They are mainly found around the village of Zaouiat Sidi Abdenabi and in the mountains of Djebel Bani. They often represent the animals that lived there at that time, such as zebras, rhinos, and ostriches. Other engravings represent signs which could not be deciphered until now and keep all their mystery. The cave paintings made from ocher earth very often take up the representation of the free man.

The Dry Lake of Iriqui

This lake, which once covered about 80 km², was the second-largest lake in Africa. It was fed by the Drâa wadi. In the past, a multitude of fish lived there, and the local population used to catch them aboard small wooden boats—a scene that is difficult to imagine today!

Several factors have led to the gradual drying up of Lake Iriqui.
The northern part of the lake, where the waters of the Drâa first arrived, suffered progressive silting as the wind pushed desert sand towards its entrance. This phenomenon is common in the desert. This region also had to deal with the proliferation of horseflies around the wetlands of the lake, which became a real problem for nomads, as their herds of camels were decimated. The Noaji tribe, therefore, on several occasions, tried to sand up the entrance of the lake to eliminate the presence of these insects.

However, in 1971, with the construction of the El Mansour Eddahbi dam, the drying up of the lake accelerated. The waters of the river were then diverted upstream from the lake, near Ouarzazate, to irrigate crops and supply water to the populations of the Ouarzazate and Zagora regions.

The drop in rainfall and the years of drought in Iriqui National Park further reinforced the lake’s drying up. Today, the lakebed only fills up during rainy winters, benefiting wildlife and migratory birds, which are becoming increasingly rare.

Erg Chegaga, the Erg with the Highest Dune in Morocco

Erg Chegaga is part of the vast expanse of sand dunes known as Erg El Mhazil.
Originally, this erg was called Erg Labidlia, named after the ancient Black slaves who climbed the highest dune at nightfall to play music and express their painful condition of slavery.

Next to the highest dune, there is Labidlia Srera, the “small” dune. The name Chegaga gradually replaced it as tourism developed, taking the name of the place where cultivated fields once existed to the north of these dunes.

This erg is part of Iriqui National Park and is located 75 km from Foum Zguid. To reach it, one must cross a large part of the dried-up plains of Lake Iriqui. At its entrance, tamarisk trees are abundant, and from there, visitors can access various bivouac sites, ranging from the simplest to the most luxurious.

The tallest and most iconic dune rises to a height of 300 meters. Visitors can climb it on foot and admire the sunset with a panoramic view of the surrounding dunes.

Erg El Mhazil, the desert that remains wild

This erg gets its name from the nomadic tribe that owns the land and once established its nomadic camps there. It is also known as the “sea of sand.” Here begins the Sahara and its elegant dunes. Erg El Mhazil offers breathtaking views of the dried-up Iriqui lake and its vast plains. To the north, Djebel Bani unfolds its long ribbon of mountains, while to the south, one can easily catch a glimpse of the mountains marking the border with Algeria, located just a few kilometers away.

This place has maintained its natural aspect thanks to responsible and environmentally respectful tourism. Even within the few permanent bivouacs, one can still experience the tranquility of the desert, conducive to disconnecting and appreciating these spaces with a magical ambiance.

Zaouiat Sidi Abdenabi village

In the natural park of Irqui, this is the only existing village. Nowadays, it has around a hundred inhabitants, far from the number of nomads that once lived there. Over the years, most villagers have chosen to move to larger cities for more comfort and better job opportunities. The few children in the village attend the small school in the town center, funded by the government.

The village is named after its former marabout, Sidi Abdenabi, the founder of the place. He was a holy man rich in knowledge, promoting Quranic education and possessing extensive knowledge of herbal medicine. During your visit to the village, you can discover his tomb. Recently, the remains of an ancient village in the oasis were found, likely covered by water. This hypothesis may explain the presence of the old ksar (fortified village) on the village’s heights, protected from rising waters.

The village was built around the oasis, where subsistence agriculture has developed thanks to a sophisticated irrigation system. Water is shared among different family plots and extracted from the main well by a pump powered by solar panels. They cultivate seasonal vegetables, dates, and cereals such as wheat and lentils. These cereals are also sown around the village, at the foot of the mountain, and can grow during rainy years under the watchful eye of the farmers who keep goats and camels away from these valuable crops so tempting for the freely roaming herds. These crops primarily serve to feed the village inhabitants, and a small portion of the harvest is sold in the markets of Foum Zguid for additional income. The villagers also rely on occasional livestock sales.

The second resource for the villagers is tourism, particularly ecotourism. It highlights the region’s remarkable natural heritage to preserve it, pass it on to future generations, and perpetuate its rich culture. Ecotourism is also an ethical form of tourism where local populations and every actor involved directly benefit from this activity, enabling them to sustain their livelihoods with integrity and respect. By participating in bivouacs, excursions, overnight stays, or even just passing by to enjoy the hospitality of the nomadic guides and hosts of Lake Iriki, travelers contribute to maintaining the populations and their culture in their natural environment.

The guesthouse, “Guest House Lac Iriki,” allows visitors to stay right next to the village, where they will be welcomed by the nomads and share their culture with great hospitality. My Guest House Lac Iriki is located in the center of the village, next to the oasis.

Every year, the village holds its Moussem, a traditional festival where nomads gather from all around to participate. It’s an occasion for trading and socializing. The festival currently takes place at the end of October or early November, or in spring, depending on the Ramadan dates.

The Mhazil tribe

The Mhazil tribe consists of approximately 12,000 nomads, direct descendants of the marabout Sidi Abdenabi since the 15th century. This holy man settled in these lands due to their prosperity and natural wealth, abundant in water and vegetation. He acquired these lands officially through property deeds in exchange for gold, enabling him to develop and prosper his tribe on an area of about 100 km².

The Mhazil people are Sahrawis, cousins of the larger Reguibat tribe, and descendants of the Charg branch. The Reguibat tribe now occupies a significant part of Western Sahara, south of Morocco.

In the past, the Mhazil tribe engaged in salt trading, where caravans of men and camels crossed the desert for long days until reaching Timbuktu to exchange their precious goods. In the desert of the Iriki National Park, there are still remnants of that prosperous era, such as buried traces of what was likely an ancient market (souk) in the Erg Ghoule. Many arrowheads can still be found under the sand, bearing witness to the vibrancy of these places during the time of great caravan expeditions.

The Iriki lake was a coveted territory due to its strategic location and the abundance of sacred water, making it a place of great wealth. The wildlife was also abundant, and the presence of a large number of ostriches allowed for their breeding, further strengthening the tribe’s economic activities.

The sacred oasis and the oases of the Iriki desert

Oases play a significant role in desert landscapes and in the lives of nomads who maintain these places.

The sacred oasis of Oum Lâalag is one of the largest and most well-known in this part of the desert. It was a favored location by nomads on the route to Tombouctou, located about 15 km from the Chigaga dunes.

Over the past twenty years, the tourist attraction to this site has significantly increased. There is now a hotel, and the oasis has been enclosed by a surrounding wall. It has become a popular stopover for tourist circuits from Marrakech to Erg Chegaga.

Among the oases in the Iriki National Park, we can mention Omih Salah Oasis, Zaouia Oasis, El Grizime Oasis, Chabbi Oasis, and Laarijmia Oasis, which you can visit starting from Foum Zguid. During excursions with FOUM ZGUID TOURS, it is customary to take a break or even offer a picnic in the shade of the palm trees at these oases. In the background, the tabular mountains create a fascinating backdrop. With a bit of luck, you may encounter a herd of camels coming to drink from the well.

Tourism in the Iriqui National Park

In these vast sand dunes, tourism has developed, offering travelers the opportunity to spend one or more nights in bivouacs set up in the hollows of the dunes.

While access from M’Hamid to Erg Chegaga may see a higher tourist influx, access to the desert from Foum Zguid to Erg El Mhazil is more focused on responsible tourism. Despite being lesser-known, the desert from Foum Zguid is actually the closest access to the dunes from Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Agadir. The uniqueness of this part of the desert lies in its wild nature, and ecotourism plays a significant role in the region’s development.

This is the approach adopted by FOUM ZGUID TOURS, which offers stays deeply rooted in the respect for nature and the local communities, promoting cultural and ethical tourism. Travelers can rely on our local guide to organize a desert journey and discover the beauty of the diverse environments within the Iriqui National Park, from sand dunes to rocky plains, experiencing it all through bivouacs or trekking activities.